On The Work Bench – Flat Bed River

My American Civil War diorama, when complete, aims to show a six-horse Confederate limber and cannon having crossed a river via a covered bridge.  A group of infantry men are standing either side of the road making way for the limber team to ride on through.

I have completed a tree for the diorma, the bridge and most of the figures and horses.  It was time to work on the base, specifically the small section of river which needed to be created.

My base was slightly modified by adding some wooden quadrant to all four sides.  This was done to raise the edges of the base and to give depth for the river and its banks to be made.  Filler, scraps of wood and whatever else was lying around was used to bring the base, with the exception of the river, to the level of the newly added quadrant.

The area which would become the river bed was then painted black.  This was done purely as a precaution just in case anything showed through at a later stage when it would have been too late to do anything about it.  Using a variety of materials – small bits of stone and gravel, cat litter and anything else rock like – I created the banks of the river.  Some pieces of fallen tree were added too to add a little more interest.

The river bed and bank were then painted using oil paints diluted slightly with white spirit.  Black was used to depict the bottom and therefore the deepest part of the river and then I used burnt umber, burnt sienna and raw sienna as as I worked my way from the bottom of the river bed and up the sides of the bank.  The oil paints blend well and dry a little quicker when used with white spirit.

Once dried the various “rocks” on the river bed and along the river bank, together with the pieces of fallen tree, were dry brushed to bring out detail and shading.  The next step was to add the “water”.  For this I use a Woodland Scenics product called Realistic Water, a silicone product which dries clear. Pending the depth of your river it is best to build up in layers allowing each one to dry before adding more “Realistic Water”. It does take quite a while to dry and is often best left to do so over night.

Having added the “Realistic Water” to the desired depth my next step was to add movement to the river.  If you only want to create the effect of a mill pond then movement is less critical but for a flowing river it’s a must.  Woodland Scenics do have products which you can buy to help achieve this but these can be pretty expensive to buy in the UK and besides there are other ways of doing it.  My preferred method is to simply take an old paint brush (you can use other things instead) and rough up the silicone a bit before it has gone off completly hard.  This does of course mean keeping an eye on it but as it does take a long time to dry so you only need to check after several hours and not every few minutes.  The aim of this process is to create ridges in the silcone to simulate water movement.  You do not need to go deep into the silicone but you do need to go with the flow of your river and not across. Once done leave to dry completely.

When completly dry I used to white oil paint to dry brush the ridges of the silicone. It’s best to go sparingly and add more as you think you need it.  If all goes well your river now looks like it’s flowing as the highlighted ridges look like white water.

Below are a few pictures of the various stages referred to above.  Images of the completed diorama will be posted soon.

On the Work Bench – New England Style Wooden Bridge

Work continues on my American Civil War  diorama, a feature of which is a New England Style wooden Bridge.  The bridge is based on an image I found online albeit that the “real” bridge and river were wider. Nature has few space constraints but alas my diorama base does so it was necessary to construct a shorter bridge!

The bridge itself was constructed using wooden coffee stirrers to make the base and sides, match sticks to make the front and back trim and cardboard to make the wooden shingle roof.  The finished bridge was then painted using a variety of oil based washes. For further details and information on construction and painting methods please refer to my “Building Projects” section.

Below are a few images of the bridge during construction. My next step is to work on the river, more of which in my next post.

 

 

28mm Building Project No: 4 – Railway Freight Depot

I’ve always admired model railways but never had the space to truly consider building one so when I discovered that http://www.sarissa-precision.com had produced an old western steam locomotive I decided that this would have to be my next diorama. The train even in 28mm scale is a reasonable size and it took me a while to determine how best I could present the model whilst finding room on the base for a building and a few suitable figures.

originally I had wanted to build a railway station but even at 28mm this was to big for the base I wanted to use.  I finally decided I would construct a small-scale Freight Depot building but struggled to find suitable figures and so for a while the idea remained on the back burner until eventually I discovered some western railroad figures produced by http://www.northstarfigures.com.

I was now in a position to get my latest project off the ground.

As mentioned in Building Project No: 3 I had already determined that my next building would have a “wooden” shingle roof.  I had also decided that for this model I would try using foam board as the backing to the wooden stirrers instead of cardboard.  As with my previous build my first step was to establish the dimensions of the building and overall layout of the diorama.

In addition to the train Sarissa also produce track and other wagons.  I couldn’t accommodate additional wagons on this occasion but did acquire some track for mounting the train.

Having drawn up rough plans for the building (an end shed, an office in the middle and an open canopy at the other end) I set about cutting the foam board to shape and cutting away for doors and windows.  As with my previous builds I then cut the coffee stirrers to shape and glued them using PVA to the foam board.  Once the front, back and sides were complete the wood was weathered using a wire brush and a modelling knife for later painting.  Window and door frames were made using match sticks and clear plastic was used for window glazing.

I followed the same oil paint wash method for painting the outside walls as previously published.  Although I did not intend for the roof of the building to be removable I did take account of the fact that you could see inside the building through the open door and the window.  With this in mind I clad some of the interior and added a couple of wall posters and a couple of bits of furniture.

The next step was to have a go at my first shingle roof.  The basic structure was a simple piece of cardboard cut to the right length and then folded in half.  Before then gluing it to the main structure of the roof I drew lines at regular intervals on it. These lines would serve to line up the shingles.

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The central part of the building before adding the “wooden shingle roof

The shingles themselves were made from cardboard strips that were then cut into much small rectangular pieces.  A tedious job but not one that takes that long.  A line of PVA was then added to the lowest part of the roof and the individual shingles attached.  Using a cocktail stick dipped into a small amount of PVA makes it easier to pick up the small shingles.  The process is then repeated line by line.  It doesn’t take long to get into a rhythm and the process becomes quicker that you might expect.  I tend to put on a You Tube play list and before you know it the roof is complete.

When dried the next step is to paint the roof.  I chose Burnt Umber oil paint thinned with a little white spirit as my base coat followed by a black wash and then by a grey wash.  Once dried I used white as a dry brush applied going against the grain of the roof tiles.  This I felt highlighted the shingle edges.

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The central part of the building with the “wooden” shingle roof added along with the left hand side shed and the right hand side open canopy
Some further images of the buildings before final completion.  Note the inside detail.

With the buildings complete a few additions were added in the way of posters, weeds, grasses, dust and ladders etc for added realism.  The next step was to work on the train and the figures.

The train itself went together quite well and painted up OK too I felt.  I added wood to the Tender and a few pipes and levers to the cab.  The figures themselves were then painted using oil paint and placed on the diorama.  I also allowed for the Tender to be removable if required.

The finished train.

Images of the completed model appear below.

On The Work Bench – Scratch Built Wire Tree (part 2)

Having allowed the All Purpose Filler mixed with PVA to dry the next step using a sharp tool (I use my modelling knife) is to scratch some lines into the trunk of the tree in order to create a better bark effect when painted.  Once done it’s time to paint the tree starting with the underside first.

The paints I use are Winton and Newton oils – Burnt Umber, Ivory Black, Burnt Sienna and Titanium White.  The first application applied was Burnt Umber, diluted with white spirit to create a wash which nicely soakes into the filler.  This was followed by a wash of black, mostly applied to the shadow areas, then followed by a wash of Burnt Sienna with emphasis on the upper outside branches.  Titanium White was dry brushed to provide highlights.

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Almost there with the painting

With the paining complete the next step is to add the smaller branches which will take the leaves in due course.  For these smaller branches I use small pieces of “Seafoam Trees” available from Gaugemaster.  Bit by bit these are added to complete a full canopy.

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Small “Seafoam” branches added to complete canopy

The final step is to add the leaves.  For this I use “Leaf Foliage” by “Noch” which comes in a variety of colours allowing for a nice mix of trees if you are aiming to have several in a display or reflect other times of the year such as Autumn.  The tree canopy is sprayed with a strong hold Hairspray and the leaves sprinkled on. Typically I find this process needs to be done several times in order for the leaves to create clumps and create a finish that I am happy with.

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The Final Tree

Essentially the tree is finished but as I intend to use this one on a diorama the roots will need to be worked on once again along with the appropriate ground work being added too.   It will be a while until the diorama is complete but when it is I will post some images of the tree in its final state.

 

 

 

 

On The Work Bench – Scratch Built Wire Tree (part 1)

Figures for my 28mm American Civil War diorama are coming along OK but I am now starting to think about base construction.  Decided I definitely want a tree and thought I would have another go at scratch building one.  I have only ever done one tree before and much to my surprise found it easier than I thought it would be.  It might have been beginners luck though so we will have to see how this one finally turns out.

To start with I wrapped some 0.5mm wire around an A5 pad about 20 times which gave me a loop of wire approximately 9 inches (23cm) long.  Once removed from the A5 pad the loop was twisted several times starting just below the half way point.  This produced a figure 8 shape.  The bottom loop was then cut so that the wire strands all became separated.

The separated wire strands were then grouped into four individual bunches.  Each bunch was then twisted a few times and then separated once again into either two or three further bunches which were also twisted a few times and then separated again until eventually only one strand remained.  Where the remaining strand was to long it was cut off to a length I was happy with.

Once I had done this to each of the initial bunches of wire I was left with the tree’s root system.

Having completed the root system the next step was to repeat the exercise by cutting through the upper loop and creating the branches.

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Once this was complete it was then a case of spending a few moments positioning and bending the roots and branches into a shape I was happy with.  I then mixed up some All Purpose filler together with some PVA glue to an almost liquid consistency and using an old brush applied it to the underneath of the branches first and then to their upper side, the trunk and the roots.  It was then placed to one side to dry.

It might be necessary to add more filler and to scratch away any excess dried filler but that pretty much completes the process for the basic tree.  The next step will be to paint and “dress it”, more of which in a future post.

Gallery Update

Weather leaving a lot to be desired today so thought I’d spend some time taking photos to update my Gallery.  I’m no photographer so apologies for the quality of the images. Feedback and constructive criticism always appreciated. All comments answered.

Tap on some of the images to scroll through.

Thanks for looking.

 

28mm Building Project No: 3 – Livery Stable

Having completed two building projects I was ready to have a go at scratch building one.  I already knew that I wanted to build a Livery Stable and had in mind a rough idea of how it would look when completed.  To be fair the idea was based upon an old Britain’s Livery Stable (see image below) which I used to play with as a kid.

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My first step was to put my design down on paper.  Having taken account of the base size, and working to a scale of 28mm equals 6 feet (and therefore 5mm equals approximately 1 foot), I drew the outline on graph paper (front, back and sides). Coffee stirrers were then cut to shape and using pva glue were stuck to card.  I used thick card, the type they use for making picture frame mounts.

Outline graph paper drawings and coffee stirrers

As part of my design I intended to have a roof which could be removed in order to look inside, so coffee stirrers needed to be stuck to both sides of the cardboad. The one thing I had not accounted for was the contraction brought about by the pva drying.  As a consequence the dried walls curled up a little rather than lay flat. Had I weighted the sides down while drying things might have been better.  The problem wasn’t insurmountable but it became clear that I needed to redesign the inside slightly so that the sides could be braced and pulled together when assembled and glued.

Early internal images showing the upper flooring and stable posts which were used to brace the sides at assembly

You will notice from the images above that the inside was also painted at this stage as it was much easier to man handle the model and gain access to all internal areas. My next steps were to add the door frames, construct the winch system, build the doors and begin the roof.  Coffee stirrers were again used and cut to size.

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Various images of the outside and roof as the model began to come together and the figures started to be included

The right hand side of the roof as viewed in the above image was made to be removable while the left hand side was fixed.

The next stage was to paint the outside of the building but before doing so the wooden stirrers were roughed up using a wire brush and a modelling knife to add character which would become more obvious when the painting and dry brushing was done.  For painting I used a variety of different colour washes.  The washes were all created using various oil paints thinned out using white spirit.  I’m sure the purists would be horrified at the use of white spirit but I think the medium is great and use it all the time to thin and matt down oil paints.  The great thing about using real wooden coffee stirrers is the paint washes soak into the wood and in my opinion produce a nice finish.

With the building essentially complete attention was now directed to the figures and internal detailing.  The figures were mostly from http://www.dixon-minis.com – their Old West and American Civil War series.  Minor conversions were made to an artillery figure which was adjusted to pull the rope and the riden horse had saddle bags and a blanket added.

Ground work was essentially grit swept from the curb side and the greenery comprises of static grass, taller grass made from string and Seafoam Trees purchased from http://www.gaugemaster.com.  These trees are aimed at railway modellers but they are ideal for 28mm scale either as trees, bushes or climbing plants.  They are best painted with a diluted paint and then dressed with leaf materials applied using hair spray.

Images of the completed model appear below.

It was only after I had completed this model that I saw some images of roofs made of wooden shingles and thought they looked much better.  I decided that shingle roofs would be the next step towards improving my scratch built buildings.  More on this when I get round to publishing Building Project No: 4.

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28mm Building Project No: 2 – Pioneers Cabin

For this diorama I wanted to try to improve upon my first building project.  As a theme I decided to go with a pioneers cabin set in the middle of nowhere and where the early settlers would have had a non violent relationship with the local tribal indians.  The completed result appears below.

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The building itself is another kit from Sarrisa (North American series) which has had some modifications.  As mentioned in my earlier Building Project No: 1 post, I wanted to add some depth to my next building and decided to use coffee stirrer’s to help achieve this.  I wasn’t bold enough to clad the building walls but did alter the roof.  Overall I was pleased with the outcome and with hindsight wished I had done something with the walls after all!

The building also featured a stone chimney.  Being laser etched the chimney looked very flat and so along with doing alterations to the roof I decided to build a new chimney using cat litter and filler.  Picture below.

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Another first in this dioram was the introduction of “water”.  Woodland Scenics “Realistic Water” was used in the water trough and for creating the small waterfall and stream.  See below.

As with most things done for the first time there is a learning curve.  “Realistic Water” is like real water in that it runs everywhere and will escape all over the base unless it is properly contained.  If you want to add water to anything you do this stuff is great and there are some excellent tutorials on Youtube which can tell you how to use this stuff far better than I can.

The figures and wagon are all 28mm Dixon Miniatures.

A few more photo’s of this diorama are below.

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For my next building project I decided I would try my hand at constructing a building completely from scratch.  More on that to follow.  In the meaanwhile I need to work on my photography skills as these images aren’t that great!

 

 

 

Materials – Introduction

There are two stages I typically go through before I start modelling.  The first is deciding what I am going to model and this usually involves an element of research either online or through reference books and magazines to gain inspiration.  The Second stage is to determine what items I can buy to construct my model and which items I may have to scratch build or modify in some way.

Over time we all identify our preferred suppliers and pick up various tips and techniques which have helped us to produce our models.  I am no different and under the MATERIALS menu I aim to list suppliers, tips and any research materials which I have found most useful and that others might too.

Some people will argue that there is a wrong way and a right way to do certain things. This may well be true but for me the important thing is to be pleased with your own work. Practice makes perfect as they say and I for one have a need to practice a lot more!

For those of you who read this I hope you find it useful.